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Spain is a land of passionate flamenco dancers, buzzing fiestas, mouth-watering tapas, and of course, world-class wine. Rioja undoubtedly remains the most well-known region in the country, with its age-worthy reds that have been gracing tables worldwide for many, many years. However, Spain’s wine scene is so much more than that. With burgeoning regions such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, and Priorat threatening to steal the limelight from the old master, Spanish wine is undergoing a revolution. Even better, the Spanish wine story is far from one-dimensional. From the lush, green vineyards of Galicia in the north to the sun-soaked hills of Andalusia in the south, Spain boasts a diverse landscape that provides the perfect climate for growing a wide variety of grapes, and offers winemakers the tools to craft wines in a vast kaleidoscope of styles!
Their wine industry has come a long way over the past 30 years, from previously being seen as primarily a bulk source of inexpensive reds, with an array of exciting and complex wines that encompass a range of different styles. From the fresh whites from Rueda and Rías Baixas made from Verdejo and Albariño, to Jerez’s small-scale bottlings of the highest quality sherry, to the resurgence of Cava in the eyes of the wine world: with artisans such as Heretat Mestres crafting Gran Reserva wines that rival the best sparklings on the planet. Spain’s wine industry is dynamic and bursting with energy. With countless talented artisanal winemakers across its 70 regions producing wines that are individual, delicious, and worthy of international attention, more than ever the industry seems full of excitement and boundless possibilities.
Spain has a rich history of producing wines that can be traced back to over 3,000 years ago when the Phoenicians first introduced grapevines to the Iberian Peninsula. Some Archaeologists even believe that native grapes were being cultivated in some form as far back as 3000 or 4000 BC. The Roman Empire later expanded production and introduced new winemaking techniques, as well as infrastructure that helped improve the quality of Spanish wines. However, it was during the Middle Ages when Spanish wine really took off, as merchants began exporting it to other parts of Europe.
The 19th and 20th centuries were pivotal for the industry. The phylloxera epidemic devastated vineyards in the mid-19th century, leading to a sudden shortage of French wine. Other countries, including Spain, stepped up to the plate, with French winemakers crossing the Pyrenees to Rioja, Navarre, and Catalonia, bringing with them their expertise and winemaking methods. At the start of the 20th century, the production of Cava would rival the Champagne region in worldwide production. However, unfortunately much of the early 20th century was defined by a series of political and civil upheavals, including a military dictatorship and The Spanish Civil War which inflicted serious damage on the country’s wine industry, leaving vineyards uncultivated and wineries destroyed, especially in regions such as Catalonia and Valencia. The Second World War brought additional challenges, as it resulted in the closure of major European markets to Spanish exports, leading to further economic destruction.
Fortunately, domestic stability in the 1950s helped to revive the Spanish wine industry. This period saw the creation of an international market for generic bulk wines that were sold under names like Spanish sauternes and Spanish chablis. However, it wasn’t until the early 1980s that the wine-making industry entered a veritable technological revolution with the advent of stainless steel. Then, in 1996, the lifting of irrigation restrictions allowed for greater control over production and planting, resulting in the production of high-quality wines, in temperature-controlled vats. Today, Spain’s unique and innovative wines compete among international varieties, with its reputation as a serious wine-producing country continuing to grow.
Spain’s diverse and picturesque geography, including both Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, dry plateaus, and the Pyrenees mountains, has a significant impact on the country’s wine industry. Each Spanish region produces wine; however, the country’s climate and weather conditions vary significantly based on its location. Central Spain experiences scorching sun in the summer and frigid temperatures in the winter. Conversely, the cool ocean breezes in Galicia, a north-western region, and the rivers that flow through it lead to the nickname “Green Spain.” Southern Spain is known for its harsh, arid land and fierce winds, making it challenging for vineyards to thrive. The Mediterranean’s warm temperatures and cooling breezes and the Pyrenees’ rain-blocking create ideal conditions for winemaking in the west and north-central regions of Spain.
Despite being the world’s leader in vineyard acreage, the limited water use and vine planting methods result in relatively low harvest yields. Due to its varied and severe climate, viticulturists in Spain have developed several unique methods for growing vines, including planting widely spaced rows using the ‘marco real’ system to reduce competition between vines. In the 1990s, Spanish viticulturists adopted the practice of irrigation due to harsh drought conditions that significantly impacted the harvest annually and the consistency of the quality that could be obtained.
Spain boasts over 600 grape varieties, but only 20 of them contribute to nearly 90% of the country’s wine production. The widely-planted Airén, used as the base for Spanish brandy, is recognised as the primary white grape variety, while Tempranillo, grown under different names across the country, dominates the red grape category, along with Garnacha in Priorat. Monastrell and Bobal produce dark red wines and dry rosé in Levante, while Albariño and Verdejo prosper in the NW Rías Baixas and Rueda regions. Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel·lo are the three pillars of Cava production in Catalonia, and Palomino and Pedro Ximénez produce southern Sherry and Malaga wines.
Elaborar, the Spanish word for “to elaborate”, truly embodies the winemaking philosophy of Spain. Known for their rustic and traditional approach, Spanish winemakers believe they are true nurturers of their grapes and wines, not just simply producers.
The use of oak is a defining aspect of this philosophy, with some wines spending up to two decades ageing in oak barrels, even whites. This extended ageing process creates unique and recognizable flavours that are associated with regions like Rioja. While the use of oak is deeply rooted in Spanish winemaking tradition, the introduction of stainless steel fermentation tanks in the 19th century revolutionized the industry. This allowed winemakers to create fresher and fruitier wines, particularly whites.
However, the traditional use of barrel fermenting wasn’t forgotten, and some winemakers began to bring back the oxidized styles of the past. Nearly all DOs have requirements for barrel ageing, denoted by designations such as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, and the long tradition of ageing means that Spanish wines are ready to drink upon hitting the market. However, many up and coming winemakers are stepping outside of these requirements, producing terroir-driven wines with minimal barrel ageing, taking much inspiration from the French culture of vinification and bringing a fresh perspective to the Spanish winemaking scene.
Spain’s wine regions are as diverse as they are numerous, with a total of 69 separate D.Os, with each boasting its unique combination of climate, soil, and grape varieties. Divided into seven main areas by climate, the north western region of “Green” Spain includes areas like País Vasco and Galicia, which are famous for refreshing whites like Albariño, elegant reds from the Mencía grape, and crisp rosados. Catalonia in the north east near Barcelona is a region that mustn’t be missed. It is famed for producing exquisite Cavas, Spanish GSM/Rhône blends, and bold and internationally beloved robust reds from Priorat. North Central Spain is ruled by the famous Tempranillo wines of the Ebro and Douro River Valleys, which come alongside amazing Garnacha, Viura, and Verdejo. The Central Plateau is known mostly for bulk production; however, several surprising finds including old vine Garnacha and Petit Verdot await rediscovery.
Moving to the coast, the Valencia region is famed for its bold, smoky Monastrell wines that pack a punch, leaving an indelible impression. Southern Spain is Sherry country personified, with its diverse range of Palomino Fino and Pedro Ximenez grape varietals used to create everything from the dry to the sweet composition. The islands offer some curious finds, such as Listán Negro, a fruity, dry red, and Moscatel, an aromatic dessert wine, making Spain’s wine regions a true oenophile’s paradise. Spain’s wine regions are truly teeming with hidden gems that are sure to make a wine lover’s heart sing.
The DO, or Denominación de Origen system was established in 1932 to regulate the production of quality Spanish wines. This subsequently underwent various revisions and in 2016, the DO was renamed as DOP or denominación de origen protegida, which can be translated to ‘protected denomination of origin’. This is a 6-teir classification system, which specifies the production methods, grape varieties, and aging processes used to produce wines in specific regions and at specific quality levels. This system is very much in line with the French AOC system and Italy’s DOC system.
Two of the six categories are below the ‘DOP’ level. Firstly, Vino de Mesa is the most basic qualification and represents basic table wines without any regional specificity. After this you have ‘IGP’ indicación geográfica protegida (‘protected geographic indication’), which will originate from a Specific region within Spain, but which don’t have to adhere to regulations as stringent as the DOP categories and indicate good everyday wines. However, don’t be fooled, incredible wines can be produced at this level, they just don’t adhere to the governing rules of the DOP. As of 2019, Spain has 138 DOP and IGP regions, and each individual DO has its own set of regulations governing grape varieties, yields, aging, and labeling requirements.
The ‘DOP’ is then officially split into 4 tier categories. Firstly, you have the ‘VC’ (‘quality wine with geographic indication’) and then the ‘DO’ (‘denomination of origin’). These are very similar however the VC wines fall just short of the exacting requirements of the DO classification but surpase the standards of the IGP category. At the top of the pyramid there are two higher classifications that reflect the highest quality wines in Spain: the DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) and the DO Pago. The DOCa is the highest classification for Spanish wines, reserved for only two areas: Rioja and Priorat. In order to achieve DOCa status, a wine region must have a proven track record of consistently producing high-quality wines for at least 10 years under the DO system. DO Pago, on the other hand, is a relatively new classification of wines produced from a single estate or vineyard which showcase unique character and exceptional quality within their DO region. To be designated as DO Pago, a wine must meet stringent quality requirements and pass a rigorous assessment process and as of 2021 only 20 wineries, out of 5000 in all of Spain have been awarded this ‘Vinos de Pagos’ certification.
With regards to wine labels most Spanish wine bottles list the grape variety used, with some exceptions such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero characterised by the aging classifications of Crianza, Reserva, or Gran Reserva, with the latter being cellared the longest.
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