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Portugal

Introduction

The diverse range of Portuguese wines encompasses everything from the crisp, effervescent whites of Vinho Verde to the robust, full-bodied reds and the iconic and delicious fortified Port wines from the Douro Valley. While red and fortified wines tend to dominate the market, the potential of Portugal’s white wines is increasingly recognised: The northern Alvarinho grape has garnered attention for its distinctive, character-driven dry whites, transcending the realm of historically predominantly budget-friendly options. The southern region of Setúbal also offers an array of delightful fortified Moscatels.

Over the past two decades, Portugal has quietly emerged as a powerhouse in the world of wine. This transformation can be attributed to the nation’s steadfast dedication to cultivating indigenous grape varieties and producing unique, full-bodied wines that can hold their own on the global stage. Far more than the country of Port, the incredible value offered by Portuguese wines has captured the attention of enthusiasts everywhere.

For many oenophiles, Portugal represents the undiscovered gem of Western European winemaking, with a wealth of untapped flavours and experiences awaiting exploration. Since joining the EU roughly 20 years ago, the country has evolved from producing lackluster whites and overly tannic reds into one of the most innovative and dynamic wine regions worldwide.

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History

The origins of winemaking in Portugal can be traced back over four millennia to when the ancient Tartessians first cultivated vineyards in the southern Sado and Tagus valleys around 2000 BC. As the ages passed, various civilizations contributed to the evolution of Portuguese wine: from the Phoenicians in the 10th Century BC; the Romans during the 2nd century BC to the 5th century AD; to monastic orders like the Cistercians and Knights Templar during the middle ages. Everyone played their part in introducing new grape varieties, refining and developing winemaking techniques and establishing regions such as the Douro, Alentejo and Dão.

Portugal’s wine history was also heavily influenced by its close relationship with England. The 14th-century Treaty of Windsor established a political and commercial alliance between the two nations, boosting wine trade. This alliance was further reinforced by the Methuen Treaty of 1703, granting preferential duties on Portuguese wines imported into England. The boom in popularity of Port wine can be traced back to 1678 when two English wine merchants visited the Abbot of Lamego in the Douro region. They were introduced to a smooth, fortified wine that captured their interest, leading them to purchase the entire stock for export to England. The Methuen Treaty later facilitated the popularity of Port in England, as it was a delectable alternative to French wine during times of conflict.

In the mid-1980s, Portugal’s entry into the European Union provided much-needed financial support for the stagnant wine industry. This investment led to improvements in technology and infrastructure, shifting the focus towards premium wine production using indigenous Portuguese grape varieties. Today, the Portuguese wine industry is no longer divided solely between Port producers and others, the lines are blurred and many Port makers now even produce premium dry wines from Douro grapes. The focus on utilizing distinctive Portuguese grape varieties and international grapes has led to increased global recognition for Portuguese wines from regions such as Dão, Vinho Verde, and Alentejo.

Geography & Climate

Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean to the west and Spain to the east, Portugal’s geography is characterised by a variety of landscapes, ranging from lush green mountains in the north to rolling plains in the south, and an extensive coastline stretching over 1,794 kilometres. The climate in Portugal varies significantly from region to region, with the northern areas experiencing a temperate maritime climate influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, to continental in the interior, where temperatures can be more extreme, and the southern regions enjoy a hot Mediterranean climate.

This diverse geography and climate make Portugal an ideal location for wine production, as the varied terrain and weather conditions create an array of unique microclimates suitable for growing different grape varieties. The cool, wet climate in the northern regions, such as Vinho Verde and Douro, favours the cultivation of grapes like Alvarinho and Touriga Nacional, which produce crisp, aromatic white wines and bold, full-bodied reds, respectively.

The warmer, drier southern regions like Alentejo and Dão are conducive to the growth of grapes such as Aragonez and Castelão, which yield rich, fruity red wines with smooth tannins. The Atlantic Ocean plays a significant role in shaping the terroir of Portuguese wines, as the cool ocean breezes help moderate the temperatures in coastal vineyards and impart a distinctive saline character to the wines produced there. Additionally, the complex soil compositions found throughout Portugal, including more granite, slate and schist soils in the North and limestone, clay and sand soils in the South contribute to the unique flavours and characteristics of the wines.

Key Portuguese Grape Varieties

Because of a wine culture that has developed in relative isolation, Portugal has over 250 native grape varieties, more than anywhere else on the Planet. It also has a selection of imported varieties that have embraced the local terroir. If you don’t recognise the grape variety on a bottle of Portuguese wine, that is often a good thing! The Portuguese wine landscape is a treasure trove of unique flavours and profiles waiting to be discovered. Below is a list of some of the most prized varieties in Portuguese wine, however, this of course only represents a very small selection of the choices available!

Among the white grape varieties, Alvarinho from the Minho region stands out for its high quality, producing intensely aromatic wines with peach, lemon, and honeysuckle notes, along with a distinct minerality and high acidity. Arinto, celebrated for its vibrant acidity and citrusy flavours, is widely grown across Portugal and often blended with other varieties but can also shine on its own. Bical, native to Bairrada and Dão, impresses with its balance of sugar and acidity, resulting in tropical fruit-flavoured wines with refreshing acidity. Fernão Pires, also known as Maria Gomes, is one of the most planted white varieties, producing fragrant, full-bodied wines with citrus and floral notes. Loureiro, native to the Minho region, is a crucial component of Vinho Verde, offering highly aromatic wines with floral and citrus characteristics. Verdelho, primarily grown in Madeira, is used to make fortified wine and can also produce medium to full-bodied dry styles.

Turning to red grape varieties, Aragonez (known as Tinta Roriz in northern Portugal and Tempranillo in Spain) is a versatile grape used in many Portuguese blends, contributing excellent structure, deep colour, and flavours of black fruits and spice. Alfrocheiro, primarily grown in Dão and Alentejo, delights with its deep colour, intense berry aromas, and soft tannins. Baga, native to Bairrada, produces tannic, high-acid wines with great aging potential, offering complex flavours of black fruits, tobacco, and earthy notes with older wines. Castelão, one of Portugal’s most widespread red varieties, thrives in sandy soils and warm climates, resulting in full-bodied wines with high tannins and flavours of red fruits and herbs. Trincadeira (also known as Tinta Amarela) is a heat-loving variety found in Alentejo and Douro, producing deeply coloured, aromatic wines with ample black fruit and a well-balanced combination of sugar, acidity, and tannins. Finally, Touriga Nacional stands as Portugal’s most famous red variety, serving as the backbone of Port but also making outstanding still wines with dense, dark fruit flavours, floral notes, and firm tannins.

Wine Regions Overview

Portugal’s diverse wine regions offer a rich array of flavors and styles. From the cool, verdant northwest of Vinho Verde to the sunny southern coast of Algarve, each region has its own unique character and grape varieties.

In the northwest, Vinho Verde is famous for its refreshing white wines made from grapes like Alvarinho, Loureiro, Trajadura, and Arinto. Trás-os-Montes in the northeast produces robust reds and fresh whites from indigenous grapes, while the Douro Valley is renowned for its fortified Port wines but also produces exceptional dry reds and whites. In the protected Dão region, elegant and structured wines are crafted with a balance of fruit, structure, and acidity. Bairrada is known for sparkling wines and robust reds made from the Baga grape, and Beira Interior produces balanced wines with good acidity.

The Lisboa region offers a wide variety of wine styles, from light whites to full-bodied reds, and Tejo produces various styles including whites and reds. Peninsula de Setúbal is famous for sweet fortified wines, Alentejo is known for bold and fruit-forward reds, and the Algarve has a burgeoning wine scene producing bold reds and refreshing rosés.

 

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