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Springbank

Springbank Distillery

Region: Campbeltown

Owner: Springbank Distillers (J & A Mitchell)

Founded: 1828

 

The Springbank distillery probably encapsulates everything I love about the whisky industry. To steal the title of a Hawkwind album, it’s full of Quark, Strangeness and Charm. The distillery is in the top half of the idiosyncratic league table, probably only topped by the Loch Lomond distillery, but nevertheless it has its delightful quirks and a distinctive personality.

 

The distillery reeks of tradition and history, which is probably why it is such a popular distillery; indeed, its aficionados are probably as devoted, or as downright mad as those that follow Ardbeg. Devotees will purchase every new release from the distillery and will endlessly debate the merits of each of those bottlings. Many love it when the distillery gets down and dirty and over the years there have been some heavily suphured sherry matured bottlings and let’s not forget the occasional buytric wine finished releases. I must say I can live with a bit of baby sick, but the sulphur really doesn’t do it for me, however it this lack of polish or rawness that has made this distillery arguably one of the most endearing distilleries in Scotland and maybe because I love the distillery so much, I’m inclined to overlook its occasional screw-ups, much like Bruichladdich I suppose.

 

As I mentioned in the chapter on Glen Scotia, the Campbeltown region was a powerhouse of Scottish distilling, but time and the vagaries of the whisky market saw a huge cull of the region’s distilleries and by the time of the 1980’s downturn only Glen Scotia and Springbank remained, even though Springbank itself had been mothballed in 1979 and Glen Scotia followed suit in 1984.

 

Incidentally there is a story that did the rounds a few years ago with regards to the region as a whole. When Springbank finally reopened in 1987, those wonderful people at the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), yes, it had to include them! Pronounced that one distillery couldn’t constitute a region and therefore Springbank would have to be classified as a Highland distillery, even when Glen Scotia came back online full time in 1999 that wasn’t enough to make the SWA change its mind, but when Hedley Wright, the owner of Springbank reopened the Glengyle distillery in 2004, finally the region got its name back. Now, I don’t know if this story is true but given how pedantic and sometimes downright stupid the SWA can be I’m more than inclined to believe it.

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To be honest, it was touch and go with regards to whether the distillery would reopen after its closure in 1979. It just about survived by selling casks to the blenders and Independent bottling companies, however it still needed a huge amount of money spending on the fabric of the distillery to get it up and running again and the knock on effect of those cask sales still reverberate today, certainly when I first started in the industry the Springbank 21 year old was part of their core range, but nowadays it is an occasional release, along with the 25 year old. In fact, the last time I can remember seeing an older distillery release was when they released the six bottle Millennium Collection in 2001, which comprised a 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 and a 50 year old, which, incidentally would cost you now somewhere in the region of £43,000 – Ouch!

 

Springbank’s idiosyncratic character begins with its barley. Prior to 1960, like most distilleries, the malting of the barley took place on site, but five years after its re-opening the decision was taken to recommence onsite malting. At a time when most distilleries were going in the opposite direction and buying in malt from commercial maltings, Springbank was going against the grain, so to speak and it had nothing to do with fancy marketing or a USP, but it was done because sometimes the old-fashioned way just works.

 

The old-fashioned approach continues with the barley being milled in an old Boby mill, followed by mashing in an open top cast iron mash tun and fermentation taking place in wooden washbacks made from boatskin larch. A length fermentation time of 100+ hours and low gravity worts gives the spirit a good fruity and estery base on which to build.

 

The idiosyncrasy continues with the distillation regime. The distillery produces three distinctly different spirits – Springbank, Hazelburn and Longrow. The spirit that is bottled as Springbank starts with barley peated to 12-15ppm and is technically distilled two and a half times. It takes a while to get your head around the process, but if you bear with me, I’ll try and explain it as simply as possible.

 

The first distillation takes place in a 16,000 litre wash still charged to 10.500 litres. This unique still is heated not only by an internal steam coil but also by direct fire. A 100% direct fire still isn’t heated uniformly and by its very nature creates hot spots which can char or burn the wort, by also using steam coils it evens out the heat distribution and regulates the addition of biscuity notes to the new make spirit.

After passing through a shell and tube condenser the 20-25% abv spirit is sent to the Low Wines Receiver. 80% of that collected spirit then passes to the Low Wines Charger which has its second distillation in Low Wines Still No1, which is fitted with a worn tub condenser and results in a spirit of around 76% abv. This distillation is called a blank run as no cuts are taken so none of the volatile compounds, alcohols and esters have been removed. I suppose you could call it an amplification of the wash still. The resulting spirit is collected in the Feints Receiver, and it is mixed with the heads and tails from in Low Wines Still No2 to create a spirit with an overall abv of 30-35%. I hope you are still following me as there will be a test at the end!

 

Anyway, on to the final bit. Remember that 20% portion of the spirit in the Low Wines Receiver? That is then mixed with 80% of the spirit from the Feints Receiver and charges Low Wines Still No2, which like the wash still is fitted with a shell and tube condenser. Fractional distillation is carried out as normal and resulting spirit is collected in the Spirit Receiver at 71-72% abv. It is then cut and casked at 63.6% abv. Unsurprisingly the new make spirit is pretty complex with a lovely balance and oily character. Personally, I think 10 years of age is the right time to bottle it, younger it can seem a little ungainly and raw, but this unique distillation process really sets up the spirit to take on a lengthy maturation in wood and the guts to stand up to being hammered with ex-sherry casks.

 

Hazelburn is a little simpler in its production process, starting with unpeated barley it is triple distilled, starting with the wash still, followed by a blank run through the Low Wines Still No1 and a final distillation in the Low Wines Still No2. Unlike Auchentoshan, which aims to create a lighter, highly rectified spirit by using only the higher strength heads from the second distillation and a narrow cut on the final distillation to collect a finished spirit at around 80%, the Hazelburn spirit finishes at the same strength as the Springbank spirit. This is why it has more weight and density than Auchentoshan.

 

The final spirit produced at Springbank has the simplest production. Barley peated to 50-55ppm is simply double distilled in the wash still and Low Wines Still No1. You could argue that Longrow is the closest in style to the type of whisky that was being produced in Campbeltown back in the 1800’s when the distillery was founded. As we know, the Victorian blends featured heavier peated spirits and the peat used at Springbank is sourced from the Machrihanish blanket bog, which being located close to the sea has a composition similar to the peat bogs on Islay, rather than the mainland bogs. This is why I often get a slight medicinal and herbal-peat reek note in Longrow, but it also has a drier, earthier character which is reminiscent of peated Highland or Speyside malts.

 

Finally, no writing on Springbank would be complete without a mention about wood. If you have read any of my other scribblings, then you probably can guess exactly what I’m going to say next, yes, that’s right. Personally, I prefer my Springbank to have been fully or predominantly aged in ex-American oak. However, as I may have mentioned earlier, Springabnk has a good weight and character to stand up to maturation in sherry and if the truth be told it somehow seems to extract a huge amount of tannin from the wood, which makes sherry matured Springbank quite gritty and a little rough and, you what, if I was in the mood for a bit of sherry then I’d go for a Springer, as they say, because I much prefer a bit of rough than the polished homogeny of say a Dalmore or a Macallan.

 

Now I will grant you that there have been one or two finishes, mainly ex-Italian wine casks that have been, oh, what’s the polite way of saying this?………. Challenging and one or two stinky, sulphurous bottlings, but I would say that over the last ten years their sherried releases have been a lot cleaner than the past. So, there you have it, Springbank is such a lovable whisky and so full of character that you really must taste it, at least once and preferably several times more. Weird, wonderful, sometimes a bit iffy, but the whisky world would be a much poorer place without it!

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