Pulteney

This idiosyncratic set up is all about creating weighty but fruity spirit. The boil balls, truncated wash still neck, and slow distillation generate plenty of reflux, leading to the capturing of the fruity esters but the curtailed copper of the condensers are there to add an oily weight, add in its coastal location and you have the ingredients for a very special whisky which is emblematic of its place.

The distillery was built by a former illicit distiller by the name of James Henderson just as the town of Wick was in the midst of a serious expansion. From the early 1800’s when its huge harbour was constructed. Wick became the centre of the herring trade in Scotland and this influx of boats and fishermen necessitated new housing, thus in 1810 Thomas Telford constructed a new town on the south bank of the river, which he called Pulteneytown. It is possible that Henderson was already supply the town with illicit whisky as he was based in the village of Stemster some 15 miles east of Wick.

I imagine that after the passing of the Excise Act in 1823, Henderson took the opportunity to become legit and build a proper distillery. It was noted by Alfred Barnard that the still bore a resemblance to old smugglers kettles and it is possible that the design of the still could have mirrored the illicit stills that Henderson was familiar with, either way they are instrumental in the character of Pultney’s whisky.

Having tasted Pulteney’s new make spirit I can attest to the fact that it is rather impressive and quite complex for new make. It certainly has a weight, but not the weight of say Mortlach’s new make and it’s fruity, although not in the Glencadam mould. It is, as they say, its own character which is perfectly showcased at around 10 to 12 years of age. The current owners handle Pulteney in the same way as they handle Balblair and Knockdhu and that is to add increasing amounts of sherry matured sprit as the age statements increase and I often found the old 17 year old to be a bit variable with regards to how heavy the sherry influence was, it seems that it’s 2019 replacement the 18 year old is absolutely spot on in terms of the balance between American and European oak character.