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Region: Speyside (Forres)
Owner: Gordon & MacPhail
Founded: 1898
When the distillery was sold to the independent blender and bottling company in 1992, the distillery was practically a shell. Anecdotal evidence suggests that the only equipment remaining in the distillery were the washbacks, so it is probably not a surprise that it took 6 years for the distillery to resume production. In the current climate it would be pretty much suicidal to take that length of time to get a distillery up and running again, but back then, things were a little different, plus Gordon & MacPhail could afford to take their time and get things right.
Their first release, from spirit distilled by the new owners, the ‘Traditional’ in 2004, showed that the distillery was on the right track.
They give the wort a fairly lengthy 72 to 120 hour fermentation, which you would have thought would end up with a big, luscious, Glencadam-esque style of spirit, but slow distillation in fairly plain stills, coupled with shell and tube condensers seems to give a pleasant citric/ grassy fresher element which balances out the oiliness of the spirit and results in what you could call a medium bodied Speyside.
Thankfully the distillery employs a relatively judicious use of ex-sherry casks to add spice and richness and I have to say that the 10 year old, which was first released in 2009 is one of the best balanced whiskies around. Other releases in their core range, such as the 15 year old and cask strength release do display a tad more sherry character, but they are still well balanced and complex.
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