Un Melange de Melon!

Now is the perfect season to enjoy the melon – and of course, I am not referring to the Honeydew, Cantaloupe, or Water Melon. This is undoubtedly the perfect season to embrace the joys of the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape of Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, in the Pays Nantais. As the temperatures rise and we find ourselves favouring fish and generally lighter dishes, a glass of a delightfully crisp, fine and refreshing Muscadet, is the perfect choice.

However, whilst Muscadet is generally associated with light, vibrant wines, for immediate enjoyment, the Melon de Bourgogne, is capable of producing wines with depth, complexity and potential longevity. Without doubt, one of the greatest exponents of this style of Muscadet, has to be Veronique Gunther of Chateau du Coing and Chateau de la Gravelle. Indeed, I remember her championing the virtues of late release Muscadets, decades before they gained their recent acclaim.

We are delighted to offer below, three of Veronique’s fabulous expressions of the Melon de Bourgogne. With their surprising intensity, modest levels of alcohol and refreshingly elegant balance, these wines are a joy to drink at any time, but in the summer season, they are sublime.

The Melange de Melon mixed case contains two bottles each of the wines blow

2022 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Grand Fief de la Cormeraie
This is a beautiful, classic, Sevre et Maine, Sur Lie, produced from perfectly ripe grapes, from Veronique’s 8 has of vines in Monnieres. After a two week fermentation, the wine is left to develop on its lees over the winter and following spring, before being bottled, without racking or filtration. Although a ‘classic’ Sur Lie, the terroir here gives this wine a surprising depth and intensity. There is a lovely roundness on the palate here, with delicious white peach and orchard fruits, balanced by a fresh drive of saline minerality, combined with a refreshing acidity.

This brings back lovely memories of holidays sailing on calm waters, enjoying a lunch of local fish with a great glass of Muscadet. That being said, don’t be fooled, the good structure in the Grand Fief de la Cormeraie, makes it a perfect pairing for more serious dining too, pairing well with fuller flavoured fish or lobster.

2018 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine ‘Gorges’
Gorges, was one of the first three Muscadet villages to be recognised as an individual cru in 2011. This wine comes from the family’s 60 year old vines from their later ripening parcels at Chateau de la Gravelle. The volcanic bedrock here, gives these wines their subtle, gunflint minerality.  To qualify for village status, the wines are obliged to age a minimum of 24 months on the lees prior to bottling, but the Gunther Gorges benefit from an extended period of 39 months ‘sur lie’, to enable the wine to develop its full complexity. Pale gold in the glass, with a greater complexity and depth on the nose, with ripe fruit and whit floral notes, together with the subtly smoky, gunflint minerality. More power and depth to the palate, but still with the modest 12.5% ABV and fresh drive of acidity. The complexity here enables it to partner a wide variety of dishes, including white meats and cheeses.

NV Perles Fines, Methode Traditionelle
This stylish sparkling wine is produced from vineyards overlooking the Maine river, at Chateau du Coing, on a terroir of Micaschist and amphibolite. The first fermentation produces a still wine with around 11% alcohol, followed by a secondary fermentation in bottle, in the traditional method with a light dosage. Beautifully clean, delicately floral bouquet. Dry on the palate, but with lovely ripe white fruits, offering the lightness and vibrancy of a Prosecco, with subtle brioche nuances of a true Champagne, balanced by a fresh, citrus acidity. Instantly appealing, surprisingly sophisticated and exceptional value!  Of course, this is an ideal aperitif, but try it with white meats or fruit based desserts too

CHATEAU DU COING
As always in life, there are never enough days in the weeks, or hours in the day and this feels especially true when visiting the producers we work with. There are always too many great wines to taste and things to discuss. As a general rule however, we visit four or five cellars a day, inevitably rushing from pillar to post, to try and ensure we keep as close as possible to our schedule.  A visit to taste with Veronique at the imposing, Chateau du Coing however, leaves no time for any additional rendez-vous.

The historic chateau, enjoys the unique location, from which it takes its name, situated at the ‘corner’, where the two rivers of the Sevre et Maine meet. The family own some 75 ha of vines in total. Approximately 50 ha are located here at du Coing, with a south facing exposition and a terroir of silt, sand and schist. A further 17 ha of vines are located on the superb volcanic bedrock at Chateau de la Gravelle and 8 ha on the micaschist at Monnieres, in the heart of the Nantais appellation. Incredibly passionate and meticulous about her work, Vernonique is unbelievably generous with her time and always eager to provide a guided tour of the majestic Chateau and expansive grounds, whilst talking at length about her precious vineyards and the recent, or upcoming harvest. In her quest to produce wines which really reflect their terroir and which will offer the potential for a great longevity, the emphasis here has always been on quality, with Veronique’s fastidious work never settling for any minimum requirements stipulated by the AC, but consistently adopting significantly higher standards, in particular with the extended ageing sur latte and producing specific cuvees for late release. Although the wines we usually select are a fraction of her extensive production, we are always treated to a tasting of her full repertoire, frequently including examples from more than one vintage. This ‘hard work’, is generally followed by a delicious meal, where the different wines are paired with specific dishes, beautifully showcasing the wines versatility and also as the French would say, ‘buvabilite’. Indeed, with their moderate alcohol levels, fabulous vibrancy and freshness, these are wines that the your palate never tires of..!